Asia - Katmandu to Bhutan - Wednesday, February 21, 2018

Bhutan Airlines is the ONLY commercial airline allowed to land in Bhutan. Pilots are trained specifically for this difficult approach.  

We flew out of Katmandu this morning.  No tears shed here!  Next stop is Bhutan.  This is the spot I've been most excited to see.  There is a monastery here called the Tiger's Nest.  It's a 1600 foot ascent up the Himalayan mountains.  More like foothills in this area, but so beautiful!!  I'm looking forward to seeing the Tiger's Nest, but I'm also looking forward to getting a good workout.  Haven't been on a mountain since I left Aspen in January.  I miss those hills!!

The flight to Bhutan was short, allowing us a beautiful view of the jagged peaks of the Himalayan Mountains below.  We were on the wrong side of the plane to see Mount Everest, but perhaps we'll catch a glimpse on the way back.  We did however, celebrate the King of Bhutan's birthday with a special cake. 

Speaking of birthdays, a special shout out today to another birthday boy, Happy birthday Haynes!!

King's cake.

A huge photo of Bhutan's king, wife and baby greeted us at the airport.  

We landed safely in Bhutan, which was no easy task.  Only one airline with specially trained pilots is allowed to land in Bhutan because it is such a difficult approach.  At first, I thought, "this isn't any more difficult that flying in to Aspen."  But then we descended into a long, narrow, winding valley with the plane banking sharply to navigate the mountains on both sides of us.  Let's just say, it was an interesting approach and landing.  Any landing one can walk away from in Bhutan is a good landing.

Interesting landing.  The plane had to twist and turn through the valley following the river all the way to the airport.

Thanks to Brian, our bags arrived safely in Bhutan also.  I'm sure there is a method to this madness, because my bag mysteriously appears in my room at each destination..

There is a startling difference in Katmandu and Bhutan.  The first thing that jumped out at me was how refreshing the mountain air felt to my pollution abused lungs.  The second thing I noticed right away was how clean things are here.  The Bhutanese take pride in their homes.  

The rice fields, are cleared and ready for the spring crop of red rice, only grown in Bhutan.  The willow tree shown here is trimmed back each year and repurposed as food for livestock, firewood and wood for construction of homes.  The trees come back in the spring bigger and better. 

The rice fields look like they are manicured, even in winter when they are bare of crops.  These people are also very environmentally conscience, practical and resourceful, using even the Willow trees for food, buildings and firewood.   

Bhutan is a "NON SMOKING" country.  Cigarettes are not allowed to be brought in to Bhutan.  Wish we would implement that policy in the United States. 

We were welcomed to the Zhiwa Ling Hotel with a VIP ceremony saved only for visiting dignitaries, royalty and apparently the National Geographic folks.  A large group of men and women dressed in their native costumes, escorted us to the hotel lobby, where the hotel manager placed a Khatta (another scarf) around our necks in a welcome blessing, presented us with a warm wet towel, a cup of hot cider and our room keys.  It may not sound all that great, but it was truly special. 

VIP reception at the Zhiwa Ling Hotel with Midge.

The hotel prepared a picnic lunch for us in a lovely setting outside on the grounds behind our rooms.  Colorful tents awaited with beautiful linens and china.  The food was delicious.  The dancers were very entertaining and the achers were incredibly accurate.  Archery is a favorite sport with the Bhutanese.  They have archery courts like we have tennis courts in the U.S.  The competition is fierce.

Our picnic lunch at Zhiwa Ling Hotel.

Dancers wearing traditional Bhutanese costumes performed for us during lunch.

Time for another feeding.  Delicious!!

Our rooms were located in the outlying buildings surrounding the hotel lobby.  Wish you could see the detail in the workmanship of the carved wood!

Loved my cozy room overlooking the valley.

Simple but very comfortable describes this lovely suite.

What a lovely place for my morning tea.  If it looks cold out here ... it's because it IS!  And windy.  I didn't spend much time out here, but it sure was a lovely setting.

After lunch, we toured the Rinpung Dzongkhag Fort.  It's high up on the hill overlooking Paro, the largest town in Bhutan. (Even though Paro is the largest city in Bhutan, it's only about the size of Possum Grape, Arkansas - a SMALL one horse town!!) 

Rinpung Dzongkhag Fort nestled high up on the hill overlooking Paro.

Courtyard of the Rinpung Dzongkhag Fort, where we visited the temple located in the fort.

This intricately hand painted wall of prayer wheels lined the wall of the fort's courtyard.

Lorri and Midge spin the prayer wheels.  Hope their prayers are answered.

Stevie entering the fort through the copper clad steps.

I loved the fussiness of the architecture.  Hand carved wood with colorful paint surround the fort's courtyard.  Just beautiful.  

View of the entire village of Paro from the fort.

Speaking of hand carved architecture, the entire lobby of our hotel is magnificent.  I haven't been able to take a photo to adequately capture just how amazing it really is.  You may have to check this place out yourself.   Perhaps this photo will give you an idea.  Imagine the entire lobby with these carvings from floor to ceiling.

The entire ceiling and columns surrounding the lobby are hand carved and painted.  Amazing detail that can't truly be captured here.

Perhaps you can see the detail in the carved column in this closeup.

Pat, Stevie, Julie, Midge and Lorri.

After touring the fort, we went to a temple for a Buddhist blessing, spun a few prayer wheels and then came back to the hotel just in time for happy hour.

After touring the fort, we walked down the hill to the village of Paro.

Stevie and I spun a larger prayer wheel for larger prayers.

And here is the Mac daddy of all prayer wheels.  To be effective  it is customary to walk the wheel around three times.

For serious big time prayers!!  Three times around is supposed to do the trick.  

We visited the local art store and learned that the penis is considered "The flaming thunderbolt of eternal wisdom."  There are penis painting everywhere.  Seriously???!!!!

We actually only stopped here to use the facilities.  The "Flaming Thunderbolt of Eternal Wisdom" was just a bonus.

Again ... SERIOUSLY???

Our guide Bap walked with us through Paro and negotiated the best price to buy red rice.  

Tomorrow is an early call as we are going to hike to Tiger's Nest.  I'll be back tomorrow with some amazing photos.  But first, check out the view from my room.

The view from my room.  Tomorrow, we'll be hiking up those hills.

But first ... it's happy hour time.

We're missing one of our posse ... but happy hour must go on!!

Thursday, February 22, 2018 - Paro Bhutan


We went to bed last night with high hopes of hiking to Tiger's Nest, pending the weather, which was forecast to be cold and rainy with perhaps snow.  When I woke up this morning and looked outside, my hopes were dashed as I could barely see across the valley.  I thought it was weather that had moved in - as predicted - but it was smoke from burning rice fields.  Even though the smoke was pretty heavy in the air, we loaded the buses and took off.  Our guide told us the smoke would clear and it would be a beautiful day.  He said to never believe Google weather reports for Bhutan.  He was absolutely correct.  By the time we reached the trail head, the smoke was beginning to dissipate and away we went.

At the beginning of the hike, we were greeted with adorable little horses, all saddled up and ready for the trek up the mountain.  I must admit, they were so cute, I wanted to cave in and ride up.  But I haven't had a chance to work out for several days and the calories are not dissipating as quickly as the smoke.  So I opted to walk.  I have to admit though, I was just a little jealous when Stevie decided to ride up on the cutest horse.  

The trailhead begins here.  Pat hiked the Tiger's Nest several years ago.  She said it's become quite commercialized.

So Pat, Lorri, Midge and I took off up the mountain while Stevie negotiated with the Bhutanese for the horse ride.  The plan was to meet at the half way point for tea.  

We set off up the hill with Pat in the lead.  She's been here before.

The Bhutanese are very environmentally friendly.  Lorri & Midge are very environmentally friendly  as well.

Midge, Pat and Lorri begin the trek up the mountain.

I wouldn't say it was a brutal hike.  But it was moderately strenuous.  We were the first of our group to arrive at the tea house at the midway point.  From here, we caught our first glimpse of the Tiger's Nest.  

Tea time.

The top of this "recycled" prayer wheel that spins in the wind is pointed at The Tiger's Nest in the distance.

I was intrigued by these recycled prayer wheels that spin in the wind.  I wonder who's prayers they are offering up.

Originally built in 1692, the monastery was destroyed by fire and rebuilt in 1998. As I studied the structure clinging to the side of a sheer cliff, all I could think about was how grateful I am that I didn't have to haul all of those building materials up the mountain.  I was struggling with my bottle of water and an iPhone.  (Sorry Jeff.  I didn't even attempt to carry my beautiful new camera that you helped me with.  

Now that gear looks heavy!!

I did see a young man hauling video equipment up the mountain.  He was filming a promo for a hotel about activities in Bhutan.  I know that gear had to be heavy, but you young whipper snappers are strong and can handle it.  

Anyway, back to Takshang (Tiger's Nest).  I'll just add a photo here so you can see for yourself how beautiful it is.  

HOW did they build this place in the 1600's???

The tea house was not as quaint as the ones I visited with Kenny and Sheryl several years ago at Lake Louise, but it was good to have some tea, a biscuit and a rest.  We waited for Stevie to reach the top.  After about 30 minutes, we decided something must have gone wrong with the horse ride and she wasn't coming.  And the sky was looking a little threatening, so we decided break time was over and it was time to continue the hike another 45 minutes up, up, up.  

Tea house with Tiger's Nest in the background.

Making my way to the top.  Thought I was there.

Just when we thought we were almost there, we found ourselves staring at a 500 stair descent.  That's NOT an "I'm happy to be here" look, Midge.

That's better!!  We're almost there.  Another 500 steps up now!!

We ran into others from our group on the trail.

Pat says the rails have been added since her previous hike.  

Just when we thought we were at the top, we instead found ourselves at a false summit staring at 500 rugged stairs going down into a valley between us and the monastery.   

Forgot to mention that dogs are EVERYWHERE in Bhutan.  They are trying to figure out what to do about the overpopulation of dogs in the area.  They seem well fed and cared for.  At night they bark ALL NIGHT LONG!!

Heading down the stairs.  Pat said the rails have been added and the steps have been  improved.

So down we went, 500 stairs.  And then, back up another 500 stairs to reach the monastery.  All the while, I'm wondering how this place was built. How did they attach this structure to the side of a mountain?  How did they get the raw materials up here?  Did they have a "monk boot camp" and make them carry materials up?  Or did the MIT's (Monks in training) do the hauling?  I guess they could have used the cute little horses to haul stuff.   But we saw monks carrying all sorts of things up and down the mountain.  It's a beautiful location, but if I were a monk, I think I'd put in for a transfer to Bora Bora. 

 

Ok.  I don't need to whine any more!  Look at the load this monk is carrying!

Damn. that looks heavy.  Hope he ate all of his sticky rice this morning.

After climbing the 500 steps back up to the monastery, I snapped this photo of our descent on the other side of the valley.  Check out the switchbacks.

I ran across an interesting sight on the way up the mountain, hundreds of small ceramic Stupas placed on boulders near the entrance to a small cave.  

At first, I thought these were seashells.  Hundreds of these mini stupas were stacked on rocks in this sacred area.  

A little closer look at the mini-stupas.

When a person dies, their ashes are metaphorically "cleansed" by a monk or Lama.  Then the  ashes are mixed with a clay mixture to create 108 miniature Stupas.   (There's that number 108 again!)  The family then places one of the mini-Stupas in a variety of different holy places.  They also erect 108 prayer flags to fly for a period of one year.  They do these things to cleanse the soul and speed up their reincarnation, which is supposed to occur within 49 days.  Good karma is hugely important here!!  The deceased person is evaluated based on their good deeds or bad deeds.  They receive a white stone for good merit and a black stone for bad.  The number of stones they have when they are judged will determine whether they are reincarnated as a dog, fish, or person, etc.  

We reached the top and the security guard instructed us to lock up all cameras, hats, hiking sticks and phones.  They are forbidden inside the Monastery.    We toured the Tiger's Nest.  The monks here teach "Crazy Wisdom."  That means in times when it becomes the "norm" for a nut case to shoot children in school, or for terrorists to fly planes into buildings, we need discipline or tough love.  The crazy wisdom is intended to bring sanity in insane times.   To vanquish the demons and turn them into something good.  That's what Tiger's Nest symbolizes.  God knows we could use some tough love today!!

As beautiful as it is, it didn't take long to check out the various temples inside.  They were quite colorful.  Unfortunately, since no cameras were allowed, I have no photos to show you of the inside.  Guess you'll have to check it out on your own.  But if you plan this trek up the mountain, be sure to wear sensible shoes.  We ran across women wearing flip flops and actually saw one woman wearing wedge sandals.   

Neither are these!!

These are NOT hiking shoes.

We headed back down to meet the National Geographic group for lunch at the tea house.  Not at all what I expected, but it was tasty.  Anything would have tasted good after that hike!!  We had a cooked cabbage dish, another cabbage dish and cabbage.  Also had some kind of soup that I'm pretty sure had cabbage in it.  Oh, and red rice, that only grows here in Bhutan.  I'm bringing some of the red rice home with me.  Since I don't cook, I'll be looking for someone to give it to.  And perhaps you can invite me to enjoy it with you???

Coming down the mountain, we arrived back at the tea house for lunch.

50 shades of cabbage for lunch.

After lunch, we headed down the mountain.  The Tiger's Nest in in the background as well as another giant prayer wheel (behind me to the left.)

Time to head back down after lunch.  Midge, Julie, Pat and Lorri.

Like horses headed back to the barn, we head down the mountain. Pat and Lorri in the background. Midge and I leading the way.

Lorri and Pat heading down.

This photo gives one a true perspective of how the Tiger's Nest is clinging to the side of the cliff.

We made our way back down to the trail head and back to the hotel.  The trail was VERY dusty so I sent my dusty clothes to be laundered, showered my dusty body - which felt amazing -  organized for our departure tomorrow and headed to the bar to meet Stevie for happy hour.  It was only then that I learned that she didn't ride one of the cute horses.  She was shamed out of it by some Australian PETA nut who told her it was abusive to the animals to haul people up the mountain.  Not like Stevie to back down to some bleeding heart advocate. Maybe she had a bigger stick or something.  So Stevie set out on the hike by herself.  So proud of her.  Only sad we didn't get to hike along with her.

Another happy hour.

Farewell dinner at the Zhiwa Ling Hotel.

I haven't figured out why Stevie and I are always the FIRST to arrive at Happy Hour.

We had a fabulous dinner tonight at the hotel.  I love all of the Indian spices they use in their foods here.  I figure I'd better fill up the tank, because tomorrow is Vietnam.  So until then, I bid you adios.