Cortona, Italy, October 24 and 25, 2014 - Friday and Saturday

Paintin' and Tastin'

It's our last day in Tuscany and we've got a nice quiet day scheduled at the villa.  Sort of.  Carlo arrived at the house at promptly 9:00 for painting class.  Carlo is a local artist who restores fresco paintings in the churches of Cortona.  He was our chef, Lucia's, best man in her wedding.  Small world here in Cortona.

Our Art Teacher, Carlo, explains the Fresco Process

We're painting fresco today.  Carlo brought all the supplies and we painted our own fresco just as Michael Angelo painted the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.  Except we weren't lying on our backs painting a huge fresco.  However, it did give us a deeper understanding of how difficult Michael Angelo's job was.  Here are our paintings.  

Jean Marie Fresco.  BRAVO!

Mary Ann's Fresco.  Bravo!

Julie's Fresco.  Nice Try.  Don't give up your day job!!

Stevie's Fresco.  Bravo!!

Jan's Fresco.  Bravo!

The Olives are washed

Then ground and sent to the spinner

Our guide, Mario.  Everybody here is either Lucia or Mario

After a full day of painting, we toured an olive mill.  Quite interesting.  We sampled "new" olive oil ... made the previous day, as well as fresh olive oil ... right of the press.  They had very different flavors.  The day old olive oil tasted like the olive oil that we use - only better!  The fresh oil had an almost nutty flavor. 
 

Bread toasting on an open fire for sampling Olive Oil

The condiments to go with the oils were garlic pods, salt, pepper and tiny red peppers.  The bread for the tasting was grilled in an open fire.  Then we rubbed the garlic pod and red pepper across the toast, added oil, salt and pepper and then enjoyed the flavors.  Yum!

Olive Oil Tasting Room

We got the impression the olive mill hasn't done many tours because the whole family came out to see us.  They were taking as many photos of us as we were of them.  

Our Sommelier checking the oil

We had a special treat, a visit from the olive sommelier who explained the entire process of milling olives.  He clearly loved his work and described the olive oil just as a wine expert would.  He also said the olive oil was good to use on our skin as an oil.  Good bye Yves Saint Laurent at $250.00 for about 4 ounces!  Hello olive oil at $15.00 per liter.  

Lucia's Special Surprise for us.

We returned to Villa Santa Maria to delicious smells coming from the kitchen.  Lucia and Francesco were working on our last meal of  risotto, Rabbit Fritters, and Lava Cake.  

Lucia's Famous "Penis Pops"

Then Lucia surprised us with a bouquet of "Penis Lollipops."  I guess you'd have to know the history of the week to really appreciate the gesture.  Sure made us laugh out loud!!  And it was the perfect ending to the week with the chef at Villa Santa Maria.  

Villa Santa Maria waiting for our driver, Stefano

It is 3:30 a.m. and Stefano has arrived at the villa to take us to the airport.  We are leaving Tuscany today.  We shall miss this area for many reasons.  It's a beautiful area, the people are friendly and accommodating.   But perhaps the most important was the time we had together making such wonderful memories.  

Last view from Villa Santa Maria

Don't know how ... but Stefano got it all in.  

We are now at the airport in Paris.  The flight has been delayed due to technical issues.  Hope they get us up and running soon.

I'll have one more entry after I return to California

Cortona, Italy, October 23, 2014 - Thursday

Stompin and shopin!

Well ... we got up ...

And THEN, we all came downstairs dressed as Lucille Ball of the "I Love Lucy Show" prepared for our grape stomping at the Palazzo Vecchio Vineyard.  

Five Lucy's.  Ready to stomp some grapes.

It was a chilly day with temperatures in the high 40's, so we loaded up in scarves, coats, ponchos, basically anything we could find to keep warm.  

Our driver today, Mario, spoke NO English.  We miss Stefano!!  While leaving the villa, we tried to get him to stop in the driveway for a photo of some old dried grapes still clinging to a grape vine.  I thought it would be a nice juxtaposition photo ... old dried up grapes along side 5 beautiful Lucy's.  We were all shouting for him to stop.  He didn't get it.  Finally, he stopped 1/2 way up the hill, we crawled out of the car and trekked back down the driveway to the grapevine for this amazing photo.  

The Lucy's find a grape vine.

Then we dragged our happy asses back up the hill to put the car back on, I mean crawl into the tiny VW van.  The two tallest of the group, Jean-Marie and I jumped into the very back seat.  It was very cozy to say the least. And we were off to Montepulciano. 

We really had no idea what to expect at the vineyard, so we approached with a mild case of trepidation.  And then ...

Milco and Simone

We were greeted by two musicians, Milco, playing the accordion and Simone, playing a guitar.  The mood changed instantly and the fun began.   Milco and Simone serenaded us with Italian folk songs as we followed them around the villa to the "grape processing area," where buckets of grapes and a wooden wine cask awaited.  The music continued as we took turns in the cask stomping the grapes.  

Lucy Stevie

Lucy Mary Ann

Lucy Jan

Lucy Jean-Marie

All Five Lucy's

Now, if anyone asks me if I have stomped grapes ... I can say, "Why YES!  I have.  In Montalpiciano, Italy.  And I can definitely recommend it!"  What fun.  I was quite surprised at the temperature of the grapes.  They were cold.  Can't find a cold glass of wine here, but the grapes were certainly cold.  

Stomped Grapes Ready for this Year's Vintage

We stomped the heck out of those grapes.  Then the proprietor, Maria Louisa Sbernadori, had a tractor with a wagon filled with grapes waiting.  

"Grape Ride"  More Grapes to Stomp.  

We hopped into the wagon for a "grape ride" (likened to a hay ride in the USA) and rode around the vineyard with our musicians following along, singing songs and laughing with us. 

 

The Grape Ride Parade

The views of rolling hills embellished with grapevines and olive trees covered the Tuscan Countryside.  Combined with the music, squishy grapes, grape wagon ride, our Lucy costumes and all the laughing and giggling, made for a non-forgettable experience.  

Hot Water to Clean Our Feet After The Stomp.  Priceless!

After we got out of the grape wagon, we found five chairs, five buckets of HOT water, towels and our shoes sitting beside each chair.  Hot water has never felt so glorious!  We soaked all the grape skins and juice from our feet, put on our shoes and were escorted to delightful little tasting room. 
 

Palazzo Vecchio

The Villa has an interesting history.  Originally built as an  orphanage run by Monks, it later became an agricultural school and is now a vineyard.  So incredibly warm and cozy, the tasting room was decorated with items found on the property when the Sbernadori family bought the estate.   
 

The Palazzo Vecchio Tasting Room

Plows, tools, an old stove, bottles, wine making equipment and furniture were around the room, with more current "country farm villa" accessories throughout.  A stunning candle chandelier wrapped with grape vines hung over the long table set with five beautiful place settings waiting for us.  In the center of the table was a centerpiece made of a long strip of iron with iron pegs which held empty, upside down bottles of wine.   Way cool.  I have a friend in Basalt who can probably make one for me.  

Frederica served us a very tasty lunch.  One of the better ones we've had since we've been here.  Started with "Panzanella," a dish very similar to "Pappa."  But this had no tomatoes, rather bread with fresh herbs from the garden.  Delicious!  It is similar to our Thanksgiving stuffing.  

Roasted Pear Dessert

We had a cheese plate next, then meat balls with a red sauce and mashed potatoes followed by a beautiful and tasty dessert of roasted pears, sprinkled with sugar, cloves and cinnamon cooked in a red wine reduction sauce.  Fruit group!!  Now folks ... all of this good food is NOT going to motivate me to cook again, but it may get me to supervise a meal or two.  Any body feel like cooking???  Oh, I forgot to mention that Milco and Simone entertained during lunch with more Italian songs.  

Palazzo Vecchio Coffee Room where we met the artist, Marcus,who designed the wine label.

After lunch, we shed our Lucy costumes, went to the coffee room and started ordering some wines.  I don't even drink red wine, but it's so good here.  I've ordered another two cases.  It should arrive in California in about three weeks.  We are going to have a wine and cheese tasting. Still looking for someone to cook.

Lucy Wigs Get Tossed!

It was difficult to leave the warmth and charm of Palazzo Vecchio.  The people there made us feel so welcome that we felt like dear friends by the end of the day.  This will definitely go down as one of the highlights of this trip.  Stevie, you really out did yourself on this one.  Everyone thought you'd lost your mind (except for me, of course!  You know I love an opportunity to dress up and act like a crazy American!!)  

Montepulciano

We left and drove to Montepulciano for a little 
shopping fix.  Montepulciano was another typical ancient walled city.  They are starting to look the same now.  But Montepulciano was quite nice.  Very hilly.  Lots of stone on the streets, walls and homes, lots of tile roofs but the one thing missing was grass.  There are no yards in these walled cities.  What would Scruffy do?  

Mary Ann, Jan and Jean-Marie shopped, while Stevie and I found a cheese shop and a bar.  

Pecorino Cheese is stored in Ash.  I'm bringing some home.

The bartender had no cold chardonnay and couldn't grasp the concept of putting ice in the glass of wine.  I finally had to reach across the bar, grab the glasses and show him what to do.  (No, I didn't grab him by the scruff of the neck.  I've mellowed in my old age!)  He totally thinks Americans are nuts!!  

We're back at the villa now.  Lucia and Francesca are in the kitchen cooking.  They're trying to build a fire, since it's really cold outside.    We need a boy scout   The sunset was magnificent.  The day was even better.   We're sitting around talking about the Lucy Day.  Here are a few more fun pics that deserve honorable mention.  More tomorrow.

Mary Ann and Jan squish grapes!!

Jan in Montepulciano 

Yes, they were REAL grapes!

The Five Lucy's Arrive at Palazzo Vecchio Vineyard.  

Yup.  REAL grapes

Heard it through the Grape Vine

Lucy Mary Ann

Lucy Jan

Lucy Jean Marie

Lucy Stevie

Lucy Julie

Cortona, Italy - October 22, 2014, Wednesday

So ... we got up ...

Jean-Marie, Jan and Mary Ann read my blog.

This morning, we didn't wake up to Under the Tuscan Sun, rather Under the Tuscan Clouds.  A cold front was moving through and the wind was howling.  But soon the clouds gave way to an incredible sunny, cool day.


The girls wanted to read the blog first thing in the morning ... even before breakfast!!  What a compliment.  What pressure!  Thanks!

After a delightful breakfast, Sefano picked us up for vineyard tours.  Only an hour and a half away - which seems to be the standard distance for every town we've visited. Either one hour and thirty minutes or thirty minutes and one hour.  Doesn't matter where we go ... it's an hour and a half.

Our first winery tour.  

Beautiful view from Poggio Antico

We were off to Montalcino to tour the Poggio Antico Winery.  Meaning "ancient hill," Poggio Antico was a gorgeous setting on top of a mountain overlooking the Tuscan countryside.  

Olive trees to the left, grape vines to the right and huge cypress trees lining the road, led us to the winery.  The view from the winery was breathtaking.   Since the grapes are grown on top of the mountain, the winds keep the temperatures low, enabling the grapes to ripen in a temperate environment as opposed to the heat below.

Tasting Room at  Poggio Antico

Our guide at  Poggio Antico, "Miss. Speak-to-fast" was not the best guide.  We toured the winery and she showed us all the steps in the wine making process ... not much of which we could understand.  And then we went to the bar for the wine tasting.  

Sampling the wines with our guide

Only red wines were sampled, not my favorite, and these certainly didn't change my mind about red wine.   We sampled several Brunello wines, which are made from 100% Sangiovese grapes. Very expensive and not tasty wines do not warrant a credit card charge.  We were saved when Stefano came inside and told us it was time to go. Whew!!

Our next stop was the MastroJanni winery.  Another red wine stop. But this time, our really handsome Tuscan guide, Andrea, changed my mind about Red Wine. 
 

Our guide at MastroJanni, Andrea

This type of Brunello had a totally different taste.  It was light, yet rich, without an acidic aftertaste.  Very nice.  

Bought 2 cases of red wine.  

So I bought two cases and they're on the way to California.  Andrea served us lunch with our wines.  He made the most interesting dish called "Pappa."  A simple recipe of day old bread, sautéed tomatoes with garlic, salt and pepper and a touch of basil, topped with olive oil and it was delicious!!  I might even supervise the preparation of this dish!!  Very tasty!!  We also had Italian meats and bruschetta to compliment the wines.  The whole feel of this vineyard was much more fun.

Porcini Cheese

After MastroJanni, we made a dash through the town of Pienza, known for their Italian cheeses.  We bought cheese, checked out the view and left.  Enough said about Pienza.

Happy Birthday, Stefano

While at MastroJanni, we bought a bottle of Grapa for our driver, Sefano, for his birthday   He was so happy.  We had to make our own bow for the gift.  

After a quick stop in Cortona for more white wine, we retired home and waited patiently for our next feeding.

Dinner was awesome, as usual.  Thank you Lucia and Francesca.

Tomorrow is a big day, so I need lots of rest.  Good night.